Submitted to Tales from a Small Planet

Tales from a Small Planet is a expatriate website that allows individuals to report on living conditions for overseas assignments. [Forbes review]. I sent in the following information about life in Islamabad, Pakistan:

Reason for living this city (e.g. corporate, government, military, student, educator, retiree, etc.):
High school science teacher and community service advisor at International School of Islamabad (ISOI)

How long have you been in this city?
I arrived two weeks prior to the first day of school, so it's been almost 5 months.

Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
I came in on Emirates Airlines through Dubai.

Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Moderate. The Capital Development Authority (CDA) acts for the EPA in the Islamabad Capital Territory (ICT). They contend with trash (which is largely recycled by poor entrepreneurs) and pollution from industrial areas. However, cars are mostly tuned so relatively little pollution here and Islamabad is a planned city with a nice grid layout.

Security concerns?
Learn about the Islamic faith and how to greet others, and you will be fine. The US embassy sends out warnings whenever they think anything will happen. ISOI has very tight security but there is a comfortable atmosphere for learning inside these walls. Beyond physical safety, ISOI has also adopted a strict information policy whereby no names or pictures of current students or staff will be posted to the website, which, in my opinion, makes it difficult to promote the great things happening at our school - even though I recognize the need for it.

Housing (typical types, locations, commute time):
Islamabad, in my opinion, is largely composed of gated mansions - to provide many room for visitors in a culture where extended family is important. In the Pakistani community, family can show up without notice and expect accomodation. In the expat community, there is little to no family visiting, so they live like kings and queens in huge accomodations. Rent typically runs around $1,000/mo. for a flat. Overseas hires for ISOI teachers receive free housing. Overseas hires have the option to rent a car for $100/mo. and local hires receive a bus service to school. The commute time to school is 15-25 minutes.

International schools (and your own experience with them):
The International School of Islamabad (ISOI) is commonly referred to as the American International School. I'm biased because I teach there - but it provides a solid education.

The school currently operates at half capacity in terms of staff and students, since 9/11. The teaching staff had a large turnover this year (2005-06), but key administrators and teachers provide for a sense of tradition and excellence that maintains the school's reputation in the international arena. The school defends their mission statement (http://www.isoi.edu.pk/) and lives their strategic plan. Global citizenship, in particular, has taken on a new light and focus since Pakistan's 7.6 earthquake.

Teachers meet regularly to discuss the special needs of students in Optimal Match (OM) meetings, as town and faculty meetings.

There are very few American students since the US (British and Canadian) embassy does not allow dependents (i.e. children) at this post - even though the school runs an American-based curriculum. [American children of missionaries and more likely attend the Murree Christian School to the NW of Islamabad]. The primary school is largely international students, but the secondary school has a sizeable (~25%) Pakistani student population.

Elementary students have regular after school activities, but the secondary school needs more - beyond our growing music/theater groups and the relatively short sports seasons of SAISA. Upperclass high school students challenge themselves with AP courses in english, french, math, social studies, and science.

Preschool/daycare available (with comments about your experience):
I have no children, but expat and Pakistani couples and single parents regularly hire ayahs, which is a local nanny. ISOI offers KG-1 and KG-2 for young children

What accommodations do schools at post make for special-needs kids?
The school has at least three full-time staff solely dedicated to students with special needs. In the elementary school, the school provides at least one teacher's assistant to each classroom. In the secondary school, the runs a special classroom to provide individual attention to students. However, the school is upfront in stating that students are mainstreamed in the secondary school and all but one period in regular classes. Optimal Match meetings occur regularly in the middle and high school to discuss all students collectively and monitor their progress. These methods are some of the ways that we "ensure that each student achieves academic success."

Is this a good city for families/singles/couples?
I've hardly spent any time here so it's hard to say. The American, British, Canadian, and (apparently) UN clubs all hold regular social events, as well as the Asian Study Group.

Interesting/fun things to do:
Hikers should visit the world's youngest mountains to the NE, especially the easily-accessible Margalla Hils just north of Islamabad. Culture seekers should check out the Asian Study Group's weekly events which are for both expats and Pakistanis - or simply wander through Islamabad/Rawalpindi (the latter being referred to a the 'real' Pakistan). However, it is common for expats to feel the need to travel outside the city boundaries. Tour guides will take you to the desert, the mountains, or other fantastic places. Lahore is a bustling town within four hours driving distance for an easy get-away.

What fast food and decent restaurants are available?
Many varieties of restaurants exist. Open-air or inside. Local, Italian, Chinese, Mexican, deli, ice cream parlor, and more that I don't know. You can eat at home with your live-in or part-time cook (which is my current preference), at the stalls on the street for local fare, at local restaurants, at international franchises (ex. Pizza Hut, Subway, KFC, Dunkin Doughnuts, Marriott Hotel, Serena Hotel - not very many), or at various embassy clubs.

What is the availability (and the relative cost) of groceries and household supplies?
U.S. citizens can apply for commissary privileges, which essentially gives you access to a good mini-mart; buy most of the items you find in the USA and this is one of the few places to obtain alcohol and pork products. Requests for items can be made from the General Manager, and non-embassy workers pay by check (but this group can't buy alcohol).

Most people buy their food at the many accessible markets; one is located in each 1 square km grid of Islamabad. Expats and many Pakistani prefer to shop in sectors F-7 (Jinnah market) and F-6 (Supermarket and Kohsar market) since many familiar and overseas products are available. Get your Herbal Essense shampoo, Neutrogena sunblock, Speed Stick deodorant, Trojan condoms, Japanese tea, Snickers bars, and more here.

Treadmills, ice cream makers, widescreen TVs (three local channels available (95% Urdu) - cable or satellite available), blockbuster and tv series DVDs (no more than $2.50/each), and water filters are a few examples of available imported items. The best prices for these items are in neighboring Rawalpindi with all of its local colour. Handicrafts and fabulous wood furniture made in Pakistan are available many places for astute shoppers.

What comments can you make about using credit cards and ATMs?
Money changers (forexs) are largely located in the Blue Area (road just south of F-7 and F-6) and give slightly better rates (~5%) than hotels or embassies. [As of 15-DEC-2005, 1 USD = 60.05 PKR]. I haven't needed a credit card or ATM yet.

What type of automobile is suitable to bring (or not to bring) because of rugged terrain, lack of parts and service, local restrictions, carjackings, etc?
I recommend a 4-wheel drive to explore in the mountainous north, and a spare tire. In Islamabad, a regular sedan car, motorcyle, or bicycle is fine for transportation (but the latter two require an adventurous soul - unless it's only for Sunday recreation). I want to say a regular motorbike is around 60,000 PKR. I rent my car from my school for $100/mo.
Driving is on the left side and is largely done with stick shifts.

Hire a driver if you like. I don't do this, but labor is cheap and the roads seem like madness relative to the USA (and it gets crazier in Rawalpindi and most other Pakistan cities from what I hear). Islamabad has a nice grid layout into sectors (ex. H-9) with wide roads and a suburban feel. However, horns and flashs of bright headlights are regular greetings (and warnings) in a place where stop lights and painted lanes seem to be referred to as suggestions.

I've never heard of a carjacking here. But a friendly suggestion if you do get into an accident, leave the police out of the matter if possible. Islamabad police are friendly but quickly complicate the matter, and many locals wave them of to settle the matter individually.

Are local trains, buses, and taxis safe? Affordable?
Local transportation is affordable, but security officers advise against it. I traveled from Rawalpindi to Muzaffarabad in a local van without hassle, and latter returned to Muzaffarabad in a private van with only a quick registration twice at the Kashmir border [this is after the 7.6 earthquake]. I've never taken local transportation in Islamabad/Rawalpindi on a regular basis.

What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Telephone land lines can be wired to call overseas. I prefer Yahoo! Messenger with Voice while others prefer Skype for calls over the internet (with a computer, microphone, speakers, and DSL connection). DSL connections cost around $50 and a monthly rate of 1,000 PKR (or $17) per 1 GB transferred.

For more communication outlets, I recommend http://www.flickr.com/ for photo sharing and http://www.blogger.com/ for regular updates or on-line journal ('techie' family members should look into RSS to use in conjunction with blogs).

Do you have any recommendations regarding cell phones?
Get one for the same reasons you'd get one anywhere: easy communication and safety. Choose from pre- or post-paid plans with three or so major providers. Mobilink post-paid is popular, but not necessarily the best plan. Check out the rates to call each city and the coverage area.

Items you would ship if you could do it again?
I'm still waiting on items shipped via US Postal Service at the M-bag rate (dirt cheap surface mail for books) six months ago.

I like the idea of bringing the items you must have on the airplane with you [possibly in a bike box] for the extra ~100 USD charge.

However, as you probably can tell, I feel you can buy most of your desired products here. I'd bring my books on the plane with me if I could do this again, but mainly as a security blanket than for any other reason. Saeed Book Store in Jinnah market (F-7) has a great English-language book selection.

Availability and cost of domestic help :
Pakistanis and expats both employ domestic help in Islamabad. I have heard Pakistanis pay 500 PKR/mo. for each task their domestic help does for them (ex. cut and clean vegetables). Expats give much more because they are paying for quality, trust, and the ability to speak English.

Expats decide who they hire and for how much on a case by case basis. Available positions include guard, dhobi, ayah, cook, mali (gardener), and driver in any combination. I hire both a part-time dhobi (cleaner) and part-time cook for five-days a week for about 10,000 PKR/mo.

How much of the local language do you need to know for daily living?
If you are a temporary ornament on the tree of Islamabad, you don't need any Urdu language skills.

One misses a whole lot of culture, local color, and character without this skill though. I'm pretty poor myself, but I currently have the ability to greet, ask of one's health, list a bunch of food items, and say farewell. All locals the world over show appreciation and special kindnesses for those that try to speak their language. My students, domestic help, and more each play a small role in helping me learn Urdu.

English-language religious services available? Denominations?
There are at least two churchs in Islamabad. The one at the Diplomatic Enclave (embassy area) is fenced in by the Pakistani government these days due to an attack a number of years ago. I don't attend but I know colleagues who go on a regular basis.

English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
The International News and The Dawn seem to be the most popular English-language newspapers, but half a dozen are availble for 12-15 PKR.

Half a dozen radio channels are available in Islamabad. City FM seems to be a solely English-language station with many pop songs. However, the local CD market (about $1.50 each) and availability of MP3 files seems most popular to my students.

The local PTV channel plays 20 min. of evening news in English, but most expat TV viewers have cable or satellite with 24/7 of English-language programming (although actual channels per service seem to vary a little at each household).

Dress code at work and in public:
Islamabad is modern in that is a great deal of acceptance for others. The city is comprised of educated diplomats, NGOs, government officials, and the domestic staff which serves this community. Modesty, in terms of full-length clothing, is appreciated here - but I would say required outside of the city. Expatriate women in particular tend to find the local shalwar kameez garments stylish. I see very few women completely covered up.

At the International School of Islamabad, there is no dress code to my knowledge, but local sensitivities prevail. I don't see skimpy shirts, shorts, or skirts, but neither do I see students or staff in chadors or burqua. I do see the range from shorts and short sleeve shirts to modest full length dresses and hijabs.

Any health concerns? What is the quality of medical care available?
The regular traveller ailments are here: colds, flus, fevers, and diarrhea. Most expats I know filter their water and hire knowledgeable staff to prepare their food.

Shifa International Hospital is a private hospital in H-8, which caters to the expat and wealthy local community. Facilities are near pristine and hold the full range of medical services, including a maternity ward and analytical departments.

ISOI has a full-time nurse that serves all K-12 students, and is located in the adjacent sector to Shifa International Hospital.

Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Many people have high expenses bring pets into the country; clarify the costs beforehand. I don't no any kennels, but there are veternarians and domestic staff can help watch pets.

You can leave behind your:
You can leave behind your view of Pakistan is a nest for Al Qaeda and Osama.

But don't forget your:
But don't forget your respect and knowledge of Islam and Muslim culture.

Can you save money?
I can live pretty easily on $500-600/mo. with housing and utilities (not DSL and phone) provided - so, yes.

What unique local items can you spend it on?
Flights around the country, textiles (shawls, carpets and kilms, throws, etc.), wooden, stone, and copper household items, guided tours, DVD/CDs and electronics, books, ...

Knowing what you now know, would you still go there?
Yes. I have much more to explore about this country and region of the world. My students are a delight to teach. My school has a well-earned reputation that it strives to maintain.

Recommended movies/videos related to this city:
Islamabad still seems too young of a city to have much media attention about it.

Watch "Gandhi" to recognize the turmoil preceding Pakistan's birth. Watch PBS's "Islam: Empire of Faith" to learn about this religion of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.

Any other comments:
October 8, 2005 marked a change in Pakistan. The 7.6 earthquake really brought the nation together with a common goal of recovery unlike any other historical event, from what I hear. The tragedy has done a lot to awaken international and government attention towards the needs of these people in NWFP and Kashmir. It's a mixed blessing in this respect in which the people are coping with successfully and moving forward. Thanks to all for their assistance in this time of recovery that will last for years to come (as the Asian tsunami 2004 can attest). [Islamabad largely escaped this disaster with only one building collapse which did take one family from ISOI's immediate community].